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Hyperpigmentation

An increase in melanin leads to what is called hyperpigmentation.  In a nutshell, melanin is the substance in the body that is responsible for color (pigment) and when there is an overload of melanin in the skin, the skin will become darker in appearance or hyperpigmented.  There are certain medical conditions and pharmaceuticals that may cause hyperpigmentation.  In addition, exposure to sunlight is a major culprit of hyperpigmentaion, and will darken already hyperpigmented areas.  This is why the use of unscreen is highly recommended by dermatologists, even for African Americans.

Hyperpigmentation may also be referred to as postinflammatory hyperpigmentation.  This condition may occur after an injury such as a cut, scrape, or burn, or after certain skin disorders such as acne or eczema. Although it is not exclusive to black skin, hyperpigmentation is more common and noticeable in darker skin.  When treatment is started early of the underlying problem, the development of dark spots may be prevented.

Hyperpigmentation can be expressed through different conditions; one of those conditions is melasma, also known as chloasma.  The emergence of tan or brown patches characterizes this condition.  It is often a condition that shows up on the face.  Melasma can commonly occur in pregnant women; yet men can also develop this condition.  Melasma can be treated with medications; it is often treated by hydroquinone.  Melasma has been shown to go away naturally after pregnancy.

At times, darkened areas of the skin may take several months or years to fade.  Some forms of treatment include chemical peels, microdermabrasion, and bleaching medications that are prescribed by a dermatologist to fade pigment more rapidly.  Picking, harsh scrubbing, and abrasive treatments should be avoided so the condition will not be exacerbated.

Limiting the exposure to the sun and UV radiation will help tremendously in reducing reactions caused in individuals with melasma.  A powerful and effective sunscreen (SPF 15 or higher) must be used at all times.  If sunscreen is not worn frequently, the sunlight will more likely than not, worsen your condition.

As always, consult with your health care professional prior to treating the condition yourself.

Is sunscreen needed for black skin?

Sunscreen, also known as sunblock or sun cream, is a lotion, spray, gel or other topical product that absorbs or reflects some of the sun’s ultraviolet rays (ultraviolet radiation = UV rays) in order to protect the skin that is exposed to sunlight.  Sunscreen, in effect, protects against sunburn and potentially prevents skin cancer.   UVA rays are the sun’s ultraviolet rays that can lead to cancer.  On the other hand, UVB rays cause sunburns.  Many African Americans have been taught that we can tolerate the sun or the heat better than other races; however, black skin is not immune to skin cancer and sunburns.  Though black skin is not commonly diagnosed with skin cancer, due to its deeper melanin content absent in most other races, it does happen sometimes.  Skin cancer can be very deadly when it is diagnosed in African Americans.  Sunscreen is needed for black skin, just as it is needed for everyone else!   Sunscreen has been proven to prevent premature aging and skin cancer.

When should sunscreen be used?

It is a good practice to apply sunscreen every day.  Exposed skin will need to be protected from the sun and according to the AAD (American Academy of Dermatology), it should not only be applied if you are planning on going out in the sun because the sun’s UVA rays can penetrate through windows.  Sunscreen should be used on sunny days as well as cloudy days.  Studies have shown that even on the cloudiest days, the majority of the sun’s UV rays can pass through the clouds.  Although it may not be as commonly mentioned, and the sales of sunscreens are not sky high during the season, you should even apply sunscreen in the winter months.

When and how should I apply it?

Apply sunscreen between 15 and 20 minutes prior to your skin’s exposure to the sun.  Apply it more often if you plan to swim (reapply when exiting the water).   Apply the sunscreen to clean, dry skin.

How to Choose Sunscreen?

You will find that the creams work well, but are a bit heavier than a spray or lotion.  If you have dry skin, the creams will be the best options for your skin.  If your skin is oily, you may want to try a lotion or spray.  Look for different sunscreens based on reviews by professionals.  In choosing a sunscreen, it is good practice to pick a product that has an SPF of 30 or above.  You may find that there are many products that you already use such as lotions or cosmetics that contain an SPF of 15.  These provide some protection from the sun’s UV radiation, but the sunscreen will be even more effective when bought separately.  You can apply sunscreen under cosmetics or lotions.

As always, consult with a health care professional for advice prior to treating conditions at home.

Dark Spots, Marks, and Blemishes

One of the main causes of blemishes and dark spots is a result of our reaction to pesky pimples, blackheads, and bumps.  Many have a weakness when it comes to the huge red, white, and black dots that may cloud the face at any one given time.  Most will automatically be tempted to “pop” the bump through bursting the surface of the skin, however, this is not necessarily the best option.

The problem with the “popping” strategy is that oftentimes, the stress and tension that we place into bursting the bump will actually cause the area to be more irritated.  In result, the irritation of the skin  goes on to scar the surface of the skin.  The scarring is what is referred to as a dark spot or a blemish.  Once the dark spot or blemish has developed, it is very difficult to get rid of.

Also, not only does the popping of the bump lead to blemishes, but in some cases, it may lead to bacteria in the bloodstream. Have you ever noticed that upon squeezing the puss and buildup out of a bump that blood often follows close behind?  If you are not caeful to squeeze all of the puss out in an efficient manner, you could very easily leave some behind to mix with the bloodstream.  This is a whole new topic to elaborate on in itself.

Alternatives to squeezing and bursting bumps:

Place a bit of toothpaste, a deep pore cleansing mask, or something similar on pimples/whiteheads

Avoid squeezing up blackheads with your nails and/or abrasive surfaces

Use a bobby pin or a “bump burster” (yes these are actually manufactured and sold) to bring the puss out of the blackhead

Allow bumps to burst only during gentle exfoliation when cleansing the face

Remedies for dark spots:

• A mild acidic that penetrates through the surface of the skin
  • Lemon juice, Apple Cider Vinegar
  • Vitamin E used on the spots often (may be in the form of liquid or cream)
  • Cocoa Butter  applied often to even the skin tone
  • Pure African Black Soap gently cleanses and has been known to even the skin tone
  • Dermatologists may recommend creams containing Hydroquinone for spot treatment
  • Use a product designed for providing even skin tones such as Ambi or Biore
  • Always use a good Sunscreen of at least SPF 20

As always, consult with your doctor or dermatologist before starting any new skin regimens.

Maintaining Healthy Skin: Toning

Toning the skin is the second step in the perfect skin care regimen.  Toners are complementary to cleansers, and are the useful step prior to moisturizing.  Some do not use toners, while others use them faithfully.  The toning part of the overall process to maintaining healthy looking skin is essential.  The small step in between cleansing and moisturizing can prove to be very beneficial when you are persistent in its use.

Toners have been noted for the following benefits:

Removing excess dirt from the pores that cleansers leave behind

Reducing the appearance and the size of pores

Restoring the pH balance of the skin

Providing a healthy glow

Retain moisture

Helping to prevent acne

Have you ever noticed the dirt that may be left on the face after cleansing?  Even after using  a good cleanser, the dirt and poor clogging residue that may be left behind often goes unnoticed.  Toners remove the excess dirt that the cleanser may not have picked up.   With the use of a toner, you should be happy to know that your skin will be clearer.

The appearance of large pores can be embarrassing for some and unflattering to the face for others.  Some people have naturally larger pores, while others have small pores.  Either way, there is no need to worry.  Toners can do the trick in making pores shrink instantly; this will also keep extra bacteria from entering the pores and clogging them.

Toners balance the pH levels of the skin.  The pH level of the skin is important.  With an imbalance in pH levels, the skin may display detrimental effects.  With a balanced pH level of the skin, which is aided by the use of a toner, there will be a prevention of excess drying.  Also, if the skin is balanced in its pH levels, there will be less of an oily effect to the face. Toner is perfect for the process of balancing the pH.

A healthy glow is often provided after utilizing a good toner.  Toners are often mildly acidic and may double as mild exfoliators in some cases.   The healthy glow that appears on the face can be attributed to the toner, among other things.  Try adding in the toning process (if you do not already) to your regimen and monitor your results.

Moisture retention in the skin is essential.  Cleansers may be taxing on the skin if you are not careful.  A follow-up with a toner after the cleansing process will often provide a cooling and calming effect.  If your skin burns with the application of a toner, the products you are using may be too harsh.  The toning prior to moisturizing allows the skin to properly absorb the moisturizer.

With all of the previously mentioned benefits, it is not hard to see how using a toner consistently could be associated with preventing and improving acne from developing.  All of the aforementioned benefits explain why and how healthy skin can be achieved through constant use of a toner.

Cheap Toners:

Lemon Juice

Apple Cider Vinegar

Witch Hazel

Rose Water

Green Tea

Always consult with a skin care professional prior to adhering to any advice, as the statements provided in the article are no substitute for a physician

Maintaining Healthy Skin: Cleansing

Cleansing, toning, and moisturizing the skin are the three key steps to maintaining healthy, beautiful skin.  Ethnic skin care requires special attention because of the skin being prone to dark spots, combination skin (oily and dry in certain spots especially on the face), discoloration, and other conditions that affect the body’s largest organ.  This article will discuss some of the appropriate methods to cleansing the skin.

The skin, our body’s largest organ, requires the proper cleansing techniques.  “What cleansers should I use?  How often should I clean my face?  Am I supposed to exfoliate?” Some may ask questions such as the previously mentioned ones; I will attempt to address the questions and more in this article.

What cleanser should I use?
Cleansing with gentle cleansers is essential in order to remove build-up from the skin without stripping the natural oils from its surface.  One should cleanse the skin in a circular motion using mild cleansers.   Mild cleansers have low percentages of active ingredients and do not contain harsh detergents, dyes, and hardeners.  Mild cleansers may be natural or synthetic.  They are not drying to the skin, yet they do not leave behind oil and dirt, remove poor clogging residue.  Some examples of gentle cleansers include: Neutrogena Cleansing Bar, Dr. Bronner’s Castile Soap(diluted), Cetaphil Gentle Skin Cleanser, Pond’s Cold Cream, and Olay Foaming Face Wash.

How often should I cleanse my face?
This actually depends on the individual.  Oftentimes, people cleanse their faces depending on the results that they observe.  Upon my research and evaluating my results, I would recommend cleansing the face twice a day, once in the morning and once at night.  This is not to be confused with deep cleanses, masks, etc.  The twice a day cleanses are the simple cleanses to be followed by a toner and a moisturizer.  Masks and deep pore cleansers should typically be used no more than twice a week, because if used more frequently, they could potentially be taxing to the skin.

Am I supposed to exfoliate?
Exfoliants are the elements that strip away dead skin cells.  Not to worry though; new skin cells develop after the exfoliation process.  Exfoliation is a healthy and safe process for the skin.  One should use mild exfoliants and avoid using harsh and/or abrasive surfaces that may scar and irritate the skin.  Exfoliation may be used to rejuvenate the skin.  You may choose to use a soft facial cloth, a sponge, or the tool of your choice to serve as a light exfoliant and to stimulate the process.  Examples of mild exfoliants are salts, sugars, grapeseed or rosehip seed powder, jojoba beads, poppy seeds, etc.

Always consult with your dermatologist before starting treatments and regimens for yourself.  This information is not a substitute for your doctor’s advice.

Vitiligo

It is a recurring skin disorder for those who have darker skin.  It is caused by the loss of melanocytes or the pigment-producing cells in the skin.  Symptoms of vitiligo is the depigmentation of patches of skin which is sensitive to sun, initially small, but they enlarged and changed in shape. Lesions in the skin occur in major  areas such as face, hands, and wrists.  There are some proofs that vitiligo is caused by some autoimmune, environmental, and genetic factors.  It also a familiar disorder to people with thyroid problems.

Melasma

This is a skin pigmentation disorder common to women, particularly in pregnant women.  It can also be acquired when taking oral pills and hormone replacement therapy medications.  Melasma is a dark brown discoloration that appears over the cheeks, and the bridges on the nose and neck.  It is thought to be stimulated by the melanocytes, to produce more melanin pigments when the skin is exposed to sun.  Too much stress can  also lead to this condition outbreak.

1. 1. ACNE VULGARIS

This is a common human skin disease, ordinarily known as acne.  It affects skin areas with thick and concentrated population of sebaceous follicles in the face, and the upper part of the neck and back. It can be either inflammatory or non-inflammatory.  Large nodules, also called cysts are one of the critical cases of inflammatory acne.  It appears in groin, buttocks, and armpit area where  hair follicles and perspiration ducts collects more sweat. Acne abrasions can be pimples, spots, blemishes, zits, or just simply acne.  Large nodules, also called cystsThese are caused by the changes in the skin structures in the hair follicle and its associated sebaceous gland.

Acne frequently occurs during teenage years and continues during adulthood.  During puberty, acne is due to the increase production of male sex hormones.  For most people, it easily disappears, for some it stays longer until they are old.  No one can predict how long it will take to disappear.  The dilemma of having acne can affect the person internally.  The scars  being left behind can lower one’s self esteem leading to depression, committing suicide the worst.

Acne is not contagious or communicable.  One of the misconceptions of getting an acne is caused by dirt.  Blackheads are simply oxidized keratin occurred in the narrow follicle channel.  These plugs are formed when the duct that failed to separate and flow in the sebum created in the body.  Acne is linked to several factors such as family or genetic history, hormonal activity, inflammation or skin irritation, stress, hyperactive sebaceous glands, bacteria in the pores, usage of steroids, and exposure to certain chemical compounds.  It can also be tapped in relation to some diet or food intakes like chocolate, milk, carbohydrates.  There are studies that people with acne have low intake level of Vitamins A and E.

There are many different kinds of medication widely available for acne treatment, but some are not proven scientifically effective.  In general, some treatments only show progress  in two weeks, just flattening it out.  Skin treatments are supposed to work in 4 different ways, providing real-time effects:  peeling to prevent pore blockage, killing acne bacteria, anti-inflammatory effects, and hormonal treatment.

There are combination treatments for curing acne.  There are topical and oral bacteridical, antibiotics, and retinoids available which can be purchased over the counter.    Dermabrasion, phototherapy, photodynamic therapy, surgery, subcision, and laser treatment are some of the complex medication for treating acne and acne scars.   Hormonal treatment for females can also be done to cure acne, as well as injecting cortisone directly to the pimple.  It easily reduces redness and inflammation, making it less visible.  For those who can’t decide which combination treatment to use, many seek the advise of doctors.  But for those who can’t afford to pay a professional remedy, good hygiene is one of the best ways to prevent acne breakouts.  Proper washing and toning of the face can help remove oils and bacteria that can clog the pores.  Touching the affected area with clean hands can also inhibit the spread of bacteria to other parts of the body.  You can also be acne-free by drinking lots of water, sleeping at least 8 hours, and doing lots of exercise.

Vitiligo is a type of skin disorder that afflicts brown skinned people. The cells that produce the melanin pigment (called the melancolytes) are damaged when you have this skin illness. The cell destruction causes white patches on the skin, hair, lips and genitals. Believed to be a hereditary disorder, Vitiligo can occur at any age but is usually evident before the age of 20 for 50% of patients affected.

This skin disorder can occur equally in all ethnic or racial groups, but is significantly evident to those with darker skin tones. Because of its obvious visibility, it can also cause emotional distress to those who have this skin condition. For example, Vitiligo is also called ven kushtam meaning white leprosy, and those who have this disease are sometimes treated like lepers, making it difficult for them to function normally in the society.

There are five different kinds of Vitiligo, basing on the areas where the white patches are located in your face and/or body. Focal Vitiligo has minimal affliction with just one or very few patches on the skin. Generalized vitiligo is the most common type; it has symmetrical patches on any location on the skin like the trunks or extremities. Acrofacial has patches only on the fingers, around the mouth and eyes. Segmental are patches on just one side of the body in a linear distribution pattern. The last one is the Universal vitiligo which are widespread white patches in almost the entire body.

Although Vitiligo is a difficult skin condition to treat, there are a couple of remedies that patients can choose from to alleviate the obvious effects of this abnormal skin pigmentation on their skin. Cosmetics are good to camouflage the patches. Topical creams, injections, phototherapy and laser treatments are more options to lessen the effect. Another treatment can be surgical through skin grafting where a patch of skin is taken from a normal area and placed on the vitiliginous patch. Depigmentation can also be considered if vitiligo has already spread out to most of your skin; the remaining pigmented areas can therefore be depigmented to produce even looking skin.

For African American and people of color the word hyperpigmentation also know as dark spots can be a nightmare.  Dark spots  can develop after years of repeated sun exposure or acne or irration that causes an additive pigment effect on the skin. Once dark spots develop they will grow larger if left alone.Thus, in order not to progress, it is important to constantly use topical treatments, sunscreens, hats, and other protective clothing.

Most of the sunscreens block UVB well, if they are above 15 to 30 SPF (Sun Protective Factor) and stays on well. UVB are rays that are seasonal, mainly around summer months, and are blocked over 70% by window or car glass. There are many ways to reduce  hyperpigmentation are many. For the medium-skinned individual, one has to have a great deal of patience. In many cases the coloration will be reduced with a combination therapy. If the hyperpigmentation is milder, topical medications can be successful. These include hydroquinone, azelaic acid, kojic acid/ kojic dipalmitate, arbutin, retinoids, peptides, coffee berry, glucosamine, niacinamide, and other anti-oxidants. Since physicians can use a higher percentage of the active ingredient(s), if you have moderate or severe pigmentation, you may want to seek the care of a dermatologist.

If moderate or severe hyperpigmentation exists, one may need to be seen by a dermatologist. In these more involved cases, a combination therapy of topical skin lightening agents, sunscreens, liquid nitrogen, electrodesiccation, microdermabrasion, and laser therapy may be used. Cosmetic camouflage is useful while waiting for the pigmentation to be reduced.

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Ultraviolet (UV) radiation from the sun, or from artificial light sources, can be divided into longer wavelength UVA, which causes tanning and wrinkling of the skin, and shorter wavelength UVB, which causes sunburn.
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Remember: “A” in UVA stands for skin aging, “B” in UVB for sunburn.
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SPF (Sun Protection Factor) is a reflection on how well the sunscreen product protects the skin from redness caused by sun exposure. It is therefore an assessment of protection against the effect of UVB.
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Because of the propensity for tanning, minor blemishes in ethnic skin types can become quite dark and noticeable, primarily because of the tanning response upon exposure to sunlight.
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Therefore, it is important for ethnic skin types to select good broad-spectrum sunscreens that protect against the effect of UVB and UVA. Look for products SPF of 15 or above that contain avobenzone (Parson 1789), ecamsule (Mexoryl SX), titanium dioxide, and/or zinc oxide.
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The use of sunscreens is only one component of photoprotection. Proper photoprotection should include seeking shade during the peak UV hours (10AM to 4PM), the use of protective clothing, wide-brimmed hat, sunscreens, and sunglasses.
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For those concerned about vitamin D insufficiency, balanced diet, vitamin D fortified food and drink, and vitamin D3 supplement can be considered.

Browning of skin over the background areas is called “melasma”. Melasma can be produced from repeated sun exposure or when a female is on oral contraceptives. For melasma or for lentigines, one needs to not only block the short ultraviolet rays (UVB), but very importantly, the long ultraviolet rays (UVA).

People with dark skin tones are more suspectable to certain skin problems the people with lighter skin tones.

hyperpigmentation (the darkening of skin) happens as a result of cuts or bruises, burns  or as a result of acne or eczema. This is most commonly referred to as acne scaring and is more apparent with people withe dark skin tones.
The common run with dealing with dark spots is to start early in treatment.There are methods that treat dark spots

Medication can be of great aid both over the counter and prescription. Dermatologist treatments include chemical peels microdermabrasion, and bleaching which may fade pigment more rapidly. Its important that person with dark spots don’t pick at their spots or use harsh face scrub unless prescribed by a dermatologist. The daily use of sunscreen is vital to prevent the worsening of dark areas.

Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation is very common among darker-skin ethnic groups. Burns, bites, and acne are typical causes. The inflammation causes a stimulation of pigment production. If the skin is injured into the deeper level, the pigment will appear darker and be even more resistant to treatment.

Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation is a common, yet difficult problem to treat. Topical bleaching agents, retinoids and some topical anti-inflammatory agents are helpful. Light chemical peels and microdermabrasion have been found to be safe and effective. Risks and benefits of all procedures should be discussed with your dermatologist.

Acne can have various causes. Heredity, hormonal irregularities, stress, and pore-clogging cosmetics and hair products are the most common. If there is an underlying condition, such as poly-cystic ovary syndrome, it is important to get medical treatment to correct it.
Lesions are caused by blockage of the pores resulting in a build-up of oil and bacteria. The digestion of the oil by the bacteria results in inflammation. Picking and squeezing can further increase the inflammation.

Care must be taken to avoid unnecessary irritation that can increase post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. Topical creams are used to improve the turnover of skin cells (exfoliate), and to decrease bacteria. Oral antibiotics are often beneficial. In severe or stubborn cases, oral retinoids can be used.

Always seek the advice of a board certified dermatologist for the best information on the care and treatment of your skin